Great Wine Buys Newsletter

March 2007

Rock Horse Ranch Merlot Columbia Valley 2005

Boyd Teegarden of Natalie’s Estate is doing such a great job with his wines we can’t help but write them up. We really wish we had lots more wines like this one from the northwest; small production, high quality fruit; attention to detail, character and complexity, all for fifteen buck. Although labeled “Columbia Valley Merlot”. This drinks more like a Cabernet-dominant blend. (I could suggest that it tastes like Merlot from Bordeaux in a ripe vintage like 2003 but Bordeaux probably conjures up the wrong idea so scratch that comparison.) Dark robust and layered with black fruit base notes punctuated by red fruit highlights, it remains supple on the palate despite its big-boned frame. Like the 2004(but arguably better), this should help edge Merlot closer to varietal redemption.

October 2006

Rock Horse Ranch Stable 39 2004

$16.50/$13.50 by the case.

Natalie’s Estate has quickly established itself As a producer of serious NW wines that offer balance, varietal nuance and possibly most refreshing value. From his base in Newberg, Boyd Teegarden works with a variety of vineyards in eastern Washington/the Gorge and his goals is to produce wines that reflects this variety; site specificity and true varietal character. This dedication to terroir comes at a price, however, barrels that don’t make the cut need a new home. Lucky for us, that new home is in his second label Rock Horse Ranch.

Clearly under-priced for northwest wine of this quality. Boyd wants to make friends while maintaining the integrity of his single vineyard releases. Stable 39 is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot from three top-notch vineyards; Rosa Mystica, Hillside, and the Pines. Medium to full-bodied, this deftly weaves a line between a velvety smooth texture and enough structure to give it lift, punch and verve. Black currants play off the ripe red cherry fruits and the purity shows through, unmarred by oak. Classy and balanced. We’ll take his cast-offs any day.

June 2006

Rock Horse Ranch Merlot Columbia Valley 2004

$14.99/$11.99 by the case.

Okay, enough of the Pinot Noir, how about some Merlot? Oregon Merlot? Yes; this Merlot is good enough to make you forget all about the Sideways sniping. Made by Natalie’s Estate in Newberg (Rock Horse is just a second label) with un-oaked fruit from the Pines vineyard near The Dalles, this has character and complexity and goes well beyond what one would expect from a $15 Merlot. Medium-bodied red fruits with good length and depth, there is richness and flavor but overall it remains somewhat restrained and downright classy. A relatively new winery, Natalie’s Estate in general is making some wonderfully elegant wines from high quality vineyards in the Gorge and beyond that are definitely worth checking out.